Quercy Truffles
Welcome to the late winter treats of the glorious Quercy. Foremost among winter indulgences in this famously gastronomic region must naturally be the truffle. Now is the time for it, the prices are a little lower in the late season, 800 euros a kilo last week, but that’s quite reasonable! If you feel the desperate urge to indulge in this edible delight, Lalbenque is the place to be. Every Tuesday afternoon at 2.30, from November to early March, the village is closed for the truffle market. It will be freezing, so dress warmly, it will be chaos, so be prepared, but it will be an experience you’ll never forget and, provided your wallet is fat enough, you should come away with a rare little nugget to reward you for your endurance.
Now you need something to accompany the star of the show. Assuming you don’t have a whole foie gras at your disposal, the classic, quick lunch or supper dish for a fresh truffle is the delicious Omelette aux Truffes, accompanied by a crisp green salad, some fresh crusty bread from the afternoon baking at your local boulangerie and a jug of good red wine. A 2003 Cahors I would suggest. If you’ve never made this recipe I’ve added it to the food and drink section this month.
The other classic dish is a Pork Roti. A rolled loin of pork studded with slivers of fresh truffle. Cook it in exactly the same way as the Pork Roti with honey and walnuts, but leave out the garlic and whatever you do don’t throw away the juices, they make the most sumptuous sauce.
Oysters
Another winter treat that the Quercynoise are extremely fond of are fresh Oysters. They’re traditionally eaten at New Year and on New Years Eve the market stalls are piled high with hundreds of boxes of them, straight from the Atlantic ports south of Bordeaux and sold by half-frozen fishermen with red-raw fingers. Even now, a month later, there are still copious amounts sold in every market and on the menu at every little restaurant, bar and café. Like truffles they are only available at this time of year, but unlike truffles they cost no more than a few euros a dozen. Eaten raw of course, with a little lemon and some fresh bread. The waiter in my favourite little café insisted on my stopping for a few the other day. I was in a frantic hurry as I had a dinner party to prepare, but he claimed I had time for half a dozen oysters and I’d need the strength that afternoon. What’s more they’d improve my love life, he told me, giving me a nudge that nearly knocked me into my café crème. I wasn’t quite sure how he knew and decided it may not be prudent to ask, but I succumbed to the lure anyway. I can’t quite vouch for his claims, but I thoroughly recommend the oysters!
Bon Appetit!
© Amanda Lawrence 2006
Winter Treats in the Quercy from French Vie
Tags: Cahors Wine, Oysters, The Quercy, Truffles
