Frosted Vines
Christmas spirit has invaded the Quercy. Temperatures have plummeted, leaving the landscape shivering under a veil of frosty white. Geese are once more seen at the gates of scattered farmhouses and every shop from the Dordogne to the Garonne is liberally stocked with foie gras, oysters and Champagne. Friends drop in for an aperitif at any hour. It’s a delightful time of year.
Meanwhile I’m struggling with the component parts of the feast. Have you ever tried stuffing a goose neck? Everybody does it in these parts, and I’m determined to beat the bird into submission and master the art. It isn’t easy. My neighbours learned the technique at their mother’s elbow, and every rural Quercynoise can display a beautifully crisp, stuffed sausage. Some will serve this as an hors d’oeuvre, but my nearest neighbour serves it with drinks on Boxing Day which is what I shall do if I ever manage to grasp the essentials of the procedure.
I will buy my beautiful, fresh goose at the marvellous Christmas Eve market in Cahors, an annual carnival more akin to a fete than a traders market and huge fun for everybody. I’ll then spend the rest of the day wrestling it to the floor in my kitchen. The bird itself will be roasted on the big day with all the trimmings, including my own recipe for red cabbage with local prunes and walnuts – see below – which complements the richness of goose beautifully. A substantial rest will then be required before moving on to dessert. The bûche de Noel is a traditional Christmas Day treat in France. A light, and sumptuous roll of chocolate and chestnut, filled with whipped cream and decorated with delectable marrons glacé. Rich, fabulous and definitely a once a year thing!
Cahors isn’t the only town putting on a little ritz in the market place. Most towns and large villages have a Christmas market, some of them all day events, and some at night. Hot spiced wine, foie gras, desperately expensive truffles and chocolate covered prunes. Father Christmas is usually present – horse drawn of course, reindeer are rare down here – and half-frozen local bands delight the crowds.
The Quercy has become a well-loved holiday destination during the summer months, but in fact there is a great deal to be said in favour of the festive season. It’s crisp, cold and stuffed to bursting with the most wonderful food and wine in the world.
Bring your fur boots…
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
© Amanda Lawrence 2007
Christmas 2007 in the Quercy from French Vie
Tags: Cahors
